I had to employ some help from the inn manager to jump start the Bullet again, using his very tiny VW Polo 1.3 litre toy. We make a quick stop at Anneke’s but they’re still snoozing. On to the battery store then. R860 later I’m in business with a sparkling new Willard battery, after waiting 20 minutes for the owner of the Sabat battery store to go fetch me a real battery. I love how business is so slow a shop will even sell you a competitors brand! :)
Off to the video store with internet access and I FINALLY get a chance to upload all the journal entries I’ve been hoarding on my laptop! Excellent.
Back to Anneke’s to say goodbye to her and the little one. To kill some time before we head out to Bloemfontein we decided to take in the tourist attractions, namely the big hole.
For those of you who don’t know, this is where the South African diamond mining industry got its start back in the 19th century. The area played host to a few very influential characters such as Cecil John Rhodes and Barney Bernato, the forefathers of what would eventually become consolidated into De Beers, the world’s biggest diamond company. The “big hole” is quite literally a massive hole in the ground where the blue kimberlite vein was discovered and mined. During the 1st world war mining was ceased since there was no demand, the same happened again during the second world war. Eventually the entire hole flooded with water and became a very large tourist attraction instead. Kimberly is also where the De Beers head office is, where ALL diamonds mined in the country (and around the world, If I’m not mistaken) are brought to be redistributed, to ensure that the sources are credible and that no conflict diamonds are dealt in.
Personally, I’m not a diamond fan at all. I think it’s the greatest marketing exercise in history. But that’s an entirely different discussion...
So we went on the tour and it was quite cool to see how they lived in those times. There is a big time line in the museum that shows the flow of history of both the world and the region. There is a “underground experience” (no, not a rave club) where you get to go into a recreated mine shaft and see what it was like. Next, we were allowed into a guarded vault with loads of different types of diamonds and replicas of the first diamond discovery here, called Eureka on the banks of the Orange river and the largest uncut diamond ever discovered.
Outside, they’ve restored the surrounding town and preserved it the way it looked back in the 19th and start of the 20th centuries. Spooky. No really, it’s exactly like a ghost town. Shops selling shoes or clothes, barbers, bars, wagon dealerships, auctioneers etc etc. Barney Bernato’s boxing academy (he was quite a sportsman and actor too), dental surgery, doctors office, banks, reading rooms, billiard rooms and so on can also be explored. The only “house” that you can enter is that of where all De Beers chairmen lived over the years. Pretty cool, a snapshot of time.
All done by 15:00 and we eventually find our way to the N8 that would take us to Bloem. We’re visiting a friend whose studying architecture there. I figured since we’re practically in the neighbourhood wit would be a shame not to.
It still amazes me how in this part of the world, the nothing stretches for miles and miles, as far as the eye can see and the only thing breaking the great open plains are a few koppies (mountains, little ones) dotted here and there. By about 16:20 we make contact with Andries and he guides us to a Shell garage where we can meet up, which is great since we need to refuel again (the Bullet is THIRSTY). Soon after we’re done filling up he arrives and we say a few hearty hellos. He takes us up to the house he is sharing with another fellow student and friend. The house is freakin huge!! Like, impossibly huge, nestled in a very upper class neighbourhood. We get settled into one of the rooms, grab a few beers and head up to Naval hill, a lookout point where you can check out the whole town.
On the hill we chat a bit about our adventures and he fills us in on his comings and goings. Next we’re treated to a quick tour of the town, the university he studies at, the Chief Justice of the Courts of South Africa’s MANSION (very well guarded, ring fenced and what not) and the local hovels and hangouts, including what is described as “the very,very-bitter-end-bar”, i.e. they’ll still serve you alcohol 07:00 in the morning. Good times.
One the way back to the house we stop at “the Braai shop”. Droooool! What a great concept, it’s a one stop shop for every damn thing you can imagine for a good braai: excellent steaks and meats, sauces, implements, fuel for the fire, biltong... you name it. The guy behind the counter even suggested that for a price he’ll even sell us beer! Awesome! I recommended he franchise the idea immediately, London needs a “Braai shop”.
Good meat in hand, we head back and stoke up a good ol’ wood fire. More mates and fellow budding architects arrive to join in and they’re really cool dudes (and one dudette). We chat about all sorts of stuff, drink too much brannewyn and coke and eat like kings. I learned a few new tricks from Mattie (who happen to have had quite a few Famous Butcher Grills!) on the art of braaing a killer steak and Annelie reckoned it’s the best she’s ever had.
Anecdote: Damn I’m good.
We have to call it a night just before 00:00, since we kind of intend on nailing the last 1023 km’s to Cape Town tomorrow. Of course we will play it by ear, maybe stop halfway or whatever. But if I can help it, I’d really like to reach that checkpoint.
Highlights: Really cool catching up with Andries again! Good guy...
Good steak, enough to kill a donkey
[G & A], out
gimme the mic while i take it away
