So we didn’t get our 05:00 wake up call. Instead we were treated to the soothing Islamic melodies of prayer call at 04:45, 05:30 and 06:00. This wasn’t so bad actually. What was bad was the incessant barking! Sounded like at least 10 of them, barking and howling at each other ALL night. And this is only amplified at 04:45, 05:30 and 06:00.
Mattie seems in good spirits but still reporting flu symptoms. We pack up, make some rocket fuel for the road and head out at 07:00. Greenway was by far the worst site we’ve camped at so far. No (usable) warm water and of course the Mosque drowning out all thought on schedule. Not ideal for weary travellers.
We’re heading towards Iringa today hoping to stop off at the Kisolanza Camp, setup and check out the Korongo Isimila. Isimila is the site of what is believed to be an ancient river where prehistoric humans lived and existed about 400 000 years ago. In this location archaeologists have uncovered animal bones and stone tools dating from this period. We arrive there just after 15:30.
The area itself is quite surreal. From what the guide told us, many years of corrosion has created these massive compressed sediment pillars, capped with lava. The sediment once formed part of a large lake and dense forest that dominated the plains. We hiked for a short while until we got to these stone pillars I mentioned before. Two of the party members are engineers and a lot of their (now ancient) course work when they were in university was about geology. So they added quite a few extra perspectives on how the sediment compacted, what kind of rocks where present and what pressures could have caused the weird monoliths. They also had a theory that, well, 400 000 years is a long time. Long enough for this area to have built up, eroded and built up again, only to erode to what we see now. It’s very clear that there was obvious volcanic activity in the area at some stage, but the underlying sediment could be much younger, perhaps. Anyway, it was good to listen to all the perspectives. I snapped a few pictures of everything, of course.
Another short hike and more formations, each one strange and wonderful. We completed our tour of the valley, but not before our guide pointed out rows and rows of bee hives against a rock face. Mattie is very much allergic to bees, so we gave them a wide berth.
Before we leave the site we check out the little museum that have on site, with some of the artefacts they discovered. There is also a very nice illustration of how the area could have looked like and how it evolved to what we see today. All theory, of course. But nice, regardless. Any of the so called “artefacts” in that room could have been made up, and I sincerely doubt anything of real valley would be left in some little, super-low tech, low security building in the middle of nowhere in Tanzania. So it was a quick, cursory look. We thanked the guide and paid him 10 000 Tsh per car for the honour. We’ll worth it, I think.
On the way back we break away for the group to check out a little road side market. Nothing of interest really. Annelie points out an abattoir (to call it a butchery would be doing it a service). It’s a little shop, with a big wooden table, stained dark black with blood and little bits of various species of animal all over the place. And hunks of meat, warming cosily in the late afternoon sun, for sale. We politely decline.
We get back to the Kisolanza camp site where we are confronted with a bit of drama. Turns out, on the way back, a bee flew right into Mattie’s open window, while he was driving and stung him, right on the vein in his neck. By the time we arrive. He’s had “the extractor” stuck to his neck, trying to suck out the venom. It’s not looking to good though, and he’s remaining calm. A few minutes in and he calls for the EpiPen, a cocktail of adrenalin, cortisone and other party delights. Jabs himself in the butt, and wait. He’s already showing signs of a rash a swelling. At this stage, I’m feeling way sorry for the dude, he’s body has taken a real beating the last two days. Compounded by the driving, and well, it doesn’t make a good mix.
We all make chow, make him comfortable and keep him warm (very cold again tonight, locals spoke of -2 degrees last evening). Food was absolutely mind-blowing: flame grilled steaks (thin and thick), banana salad, papaya (the one we bought from a road side market), banana atchar (this was a experiment that worked out beautifully) and stuif pap (hard to explain, porridge basically. Don’t ask,, it’s a South African / African thing...). AWESOME.
By the time we finish dinner, Mattie has crashed pretty hard from the adrenaline wearing off (must be like chugging ten redbulls in rapid succession) and is off to bed. We’ll watch him tonight, keep him warm etc.
Annelie and I prep for a cold night, I dig out by extra layers of clothes and warm hat. Before we tuck in we take a walk and check out the restaurant on site. FANTASTIC! Built in the same mud hut / straw roof style we’ve seen so many times before, inside it’s kept cosy by little coal cauldrons and lit by oil lamps. There’s a dude at the door that plays drums when you enter and exit. The reception counter is made of this gorgeous piece of wood! One day, when I’m big, and I have a bar in my house, THIS is what I want. We linger some more, staring up at the stars and a clearly visible milky way. It’s amazing how soothing this is, such a simple act of being in the moment.
All done for today, and it was a doozy. Fingers crossed that Mattie kicks that nasty malaria habit tonight.
Highlights: 400 000 thousand year flashback
The Milky way!
Lowlights: Bees!
[G & A], out
I don’t really wanna feel like I did that day
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