On the road again
Last night was a moderate success. We managed to at least feed everyone, so I think we did OK. Annelie reckons we did more than ok, but then, I’m a perfectionist.
What I found out a bit later after we stopped is that we were camped at a Mission camp ground. There was a little orphanage across the way, and they offered the facilities as a means to gather income. Lots of kids and young adults around, obviously very interested in strangers :) Something about the African people that I have taken to heart is that they are extremely courteous and friendly. Ok, I did run across a few not so trustworthy fellas in Livingston, who were very interested in selling me some gold and diamonds; work out some business arrangement to import to Cape Town (the number plates on The Bullet tipped them off).
What I’m saying is that I don’t feel threatened or paranoid in talking to local folks anymore. The site was next to this little dam, with a small straw roof building which was divided into 3 rooms and a bathroom / shower combo. We ended up “renting” the room, but camping with our gear outside, using the toilets should we need to. We were also keen to take a shower, so there where about 8 kids of various ages ferrying water from the dam in little buckets up a ladder to a container, perched above a hearth. This was to be our hot water. Only catch: the water than came through the old rusted pipes where bright red with copper... so... we skipped the showers. Shame, felt pretty shit, considering they went through all that trouble! I gave them some t-shirts from my stash of clothes, which they greatly appreciated.
Oh, and there was a spider the size of my fist in the toilet, right by the handle you’d use to flush. This I only spotted AFTER I did my business. Swell... And no, I didn’t take a picture, less I piss it off. It was pretty decent of him to let me use HIS toilet. Sometimes you just gotta know when you’re ahead.
Anyway, yes, braai went off a storm, tucked in, and awoke to the sound of roosters. Got up, grabbed my camera and snapped a few pics of the dam at sunrise. It had this weird mist rolling off the water and it was stunning! Couldn’t dwell on it too long, had to make some coffee for the flask, pack up the gear (ALL WET!) and get going. We were going to have to push hard today to reach Malawi. It was my turn to drive, so off we went. Managed to piss Annelie off with all the toys I’ve setup, since NONE of them wanted to work now. Coached her through a few tech support issues, but it all proved too much. Managed to sort it out eventually though, but we’ve made a new rule: she will drive initially until I get all the toys / chargers / laptops online, then we switch, because it’s WAY to stressful that time in the morning!! Fair enough.
Drove through some of the most picturesque landscape to date, made especially so due to that warm, golden sunrise. The geography showed some signs of change, since for the first time we encountered more mountain passes and rolling hills than before. All wide open spaces, with the top of any said hill affording a grand view as far as the eye can see. The flora is very much a combination of Karoo bushveld dotted liberally with all sorts of green. Spotted a few banana trees and Sugar plantations. Also, quite a few Balboa trees! Balboa means “upside down tree”, in that it looks like the roots of the tree is on the top. It’s not green at all, rather a grey colour, but they are MASSIVE. Apparently, some of the bigger ones, bigger being ones with a 7m diameter are estimated to be at least 3000 years old.
Stopped a few times for the customary photo shoot (rather, I’ve been imposing theses, since we’ve done nothing but drive like bell-ends this entire trip!). Passed many many little towns and other Church missions. Most towns are nothing but shanty shacks and a few brick buildings 4 rows deep, built around the main road, with peeling or no paint, some painted signage indicating their function.
But busy! Very very busy, people and hawkers everywhere, bikes, chickens, goats and dogs. And piggies. Mmmm, Bacon. Each town is usually announced with a “Slow” sign, followed by a “50” sign (50 kms), followed by a set of booms with the local police. Checkpoint.
Another thing I’ve learned here is that Africa is ALL about communication. Be friendly, be courteous, make friends, smile. Gets you very very far. Never argue. So it’s usually all smiles, how are you, yes yes, we’re going to such and such, make a little joke, wave, smile and drive. Easy... so far.
Anyways, we pass probably 6 of these on our way, slowing down only when we get stuck behind another truck or car (I use the term “car” and “truck” loosely) or when there are animals next to the road. And there are PLEEENTY of animals next to the main roads! Little goats that would be grazing one second, next dashing in front the Blue-Grey 4x4 going 120km/h (that would be us). I’m very sorry to report that later that evening, while trying to overtake a bus, Annelie drove right over a dog...
Yeah. Hectic.
We where both in a stat of shock, the truck didn’t even flinch. At least we know it was over quickly, we just kept going. Had she swerved though, she would have hit the bus we were passing or any of the cyclists of people walking next to the road. The dog just had its day. RIP little buddy, we’re sorry.
Had many many close calls before that too, too many to mention, really. It’s really hard going driving here. Following distance is key, and good radio comms. A lot of the times we did some “Strategic Driving”, so once one vehicle is through, he will radio through an “all clear” of “wait for the 2nd white bakkie, then it’s open”, because you can’t always see around a bend, or over a hill, or around the bus you’re stuck behind. Also, our 3.0l diesel Nissan is a little loaded at this point... so getting up to speed takes some work especially up a hill. Timing, good recon and pure luck. Sometimes even that isn’t good enough.
Drive through Chipata, another rather large town, stop to buy a muffin at a shop. Carry on...
We eventually reach the border.
New experience. Totally new experience!
Just trying to get to the customs office was an adventure in itself, lots of fellows trying to sell you Malawian Kwacha “at good price. 160 per dollar”. As an aside, I did bargain up to 170, but I am totally out of my league here. I suck at bartering. The old hands in the group got 190 eventually, but only for “big notes” ($100 notes up).
Anyway, get to the office, have to fill in our details into a register, hand them our vehicles Carne de Passage, chick checks our passport... and stops.
“How many deys you in Zambia?”
“errr, 4”
“you only have 2 deys”
“eer, yes”
“I must detain you, you are illegal! Why you no visa?”
Shit
You see, I told the Zim / Zam border we’ll be 2 days when they asked. What the high hell was I thinking?!? And Annelie still argued with me about it, but in true male style I batted it. It was a little unfocused after all the landing in Zim without our gear.
“err, sorry ma’am (be kind, be courteous, NEVER argue!!), it was because our luggage was delayed by 2 days” (humble supplication)
“you shuld ‘ave got anothar one. This is illigaI, I must detain you”
“I’m really very sorry, it was an honest mistake, I’m travelling with all these other guys...”
Long story short, the other folks have built up enough rapport with her so that she let us go. But lessons learned.
Do the rest of the dance trough customs and immigration (I wish I could take pictures of this!), money hawkers trailing us all the way (at this stage I could get 165 per dollar). Walk over to the “insurance office” for the vehicles, where more negotiation and bartering is going on. In Malawi, if you get pulled over without 3rd party insurance, you are severely boned. And these folks will phone ahead to the “authorities” and inform them of your “uninsured predicament”. More bartering, haggling, back and fro, eventually get the insurance sorted. One and a half hours later, we’re finally through!
By the way, the trading money with the money-hawkers are illegal. You can do it, and no one will stop you... until you try to cross the border. THEN they stop you, and fine you, and take the money back. It’s all a very elegant system, isn’t it? :)
More driving, more villages, thank goodness for the iPod! Reach Lilongwe, refuel, STRUGGLE to get money out of the ATM’s, since there aint no service. So have to burrow a $100 for fuel. Great. Sunset is earlier this far east, so by 18:45 we’re driving in the dark (big no no, remember?). And now I know why: NO street lights, NO bike lights, NO Animal lights, nothing. So if driving during the day was treacherous, times that by 10, at least. Annelie drove after Lilongwe, since I was going into a trance from time to time.
We reach Senga bay, next to Lake Malawi just after 19:15, at a camp called Steps. Compared to the world outside the gate, it’s miles apart. Green grass, little tiki huts, a bar, lights(!) and the roar of the lake, breaking shore. I say lake, but if you didn’t know where you where you’d think it’s an ocean.
Set up, make some chow, pretty much pass out! We’ve driven for 12 hours straight. But it was worth it, because now we can camp for 2 whole days! I have to hit town tomorrow, try and get some cash and upload some pics.
Highlights: green rolling hills and epic vistas
Arriving at Steps camp in one piece
Having chow next to the epic Lake Malawi, after such a loooong day
[G & A], out
something in the way
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