Broke down camp, had breakfast and a quick “important bits” shower. Left Steps camp (which I found was part of the “Sunbird” hotel chain) at 06:55. The plan for the day is to follow the road next to the lake as much as possible, heading towards Nkhata bay. We’ve had to revaluate our travel plans somewhat. Other travellers at the camp reckoned that they had all sorts of issues crossing the Rovuma river when travelling back down from Kenya through Mozambique. Apparently the only ferry operating in the area sank, and the supposed bridge that’s indicated on the map is about 4/5 from completion. They had a little construction temporary bridge but this was washed away a few weeks ago. After consideration it became apparent that their only option was to cut West and South through the Selous Wild reservation. About 10km’s in they were hunted down by 2 game rangers and escorted to their offices... where they were fined $400 per vehicle. They had 4. Ouch! 5 Hours later, and much frustration, they were escorted to the border and ejected. Of course, there were NO signs indicating that they are in violation or trespassing... but then again, this is Africa. “You have maps? Surely you must know? Ignorance is no excuse”.
What these travellers didn’t consider was Lake Malawi. Why not catch a ferry ACROSS the lake?? “hmmmm, no, we didn’t consider that”.
So that’s why we where now off to Nkhata, to see when the ferry runs. On the road we pass through lush valleys and hills. Annelie and I both agree that this is more of what we imagine Tanzania to be. Lots of high trees and green fronds, we end up climbing about 900 meters from camp to the bay.
Before we reach our destination we drive through a heavy cloud break of torrential rain, reducing our collective speed to about 20km/h. This lasts for about 15 minutes before clearing u[p, but it was our first rain on this trip. Doesn’t sound like much, but you couldn’t see 3 meters in front of you, with trucks and animals etc etc. You know the drill. Next we pass through a huge rubber tree plantation. Beautiful, little leaves falling through the air, almost like it should be autumn or something. I I stopped to take some pictures and to buy a little rubber ball from these three little kids, for 200 Kwacha. Carry on through more lunch overgrowth and wild forests before dropping a few hundred into the harbour, at 11:23. Town is quite lively, little fishing boats out in the water and the sun shimmering off the water. As with most town, the market is entered around the “main” road. We park in convoy in front of the harbour gates and the other guys go check with the port authority about the ferry. I hopped out and checked out the market, bought some dough balls, which taste exactly like vetkoek! Also bought some deep fried rice balls, delicious. Hang around for a few hours, speak to the local dive school rep. Get a good tip about a restaurant around the corner where we can catch some real Malawian food. Turns out it’s a Thai and Italian joint, called Kaya Papaya (House of Papaya). We manage to convince the German owner to make us some more traditional fare, which was chicken or lamb served with some Sheba pap (porridge). We are presented with a jug and basin to wash our hands first, around the time the papaya and banana and papaya and strawberry milkshakes arrive. Very tasty!
I suspect the porridge was a little undercooked, but everything else was good. On the way out of the bay we stop at a little store to buy some malaria cures. The locals reckon that if you get malaria, THIS is the stuff to have. I’ve heard a rumour before that the local cures are far superior to the commercial stuff we buy for prevention at home, and they’re much cheaper. We buy 10.
Head out at around 14:15. We need to hunt down a camp site for the evening. A few options present themselves as we reach Chitemba. Check out about 3 (one ok, 2 very much NOT ok) but a local police officer gives us a good tip to check out the Chitemba beach lodge, about 6 clicks down the road. Wow! What a brilliant place. Drive in at around 16:20, lots of fellow travellers and backpackers, big tourist trucks, little huts and a bar on the beach. We decided to pitch a few meters from the shore. Camping light this evening, so no fire, just leftovers from last night. Light is still quite good, so Annelie digs out here wedding dress while Marieke helps her put it on in the tent, which gives me just enough time to grab all my gear, tripod, umbrella (WAY too windy for that, but you never know...) some pocket wizards and my sandals.
I think we managed to grab quite a few good shots with the dramatic sky and water etc. Employed one of the little local kids to act as my VOL (voice activated light stand), so he held one flash and remote trigger with the other mounted on my tripod. Paid the little guy with 2 t-shirts and 100 Malawian Kwacha. Pitched our tent, stretchers and kit right on the beach and joined the others for a feast of left overs and good wine (Two Oceans Cabernet Sauvignon, veeeery nice). Chewed on some of that sugarcane I bought, but I’m clearly doing something wrong! Maybe I need to clean it or something first...
Tucked in at around 20:45 (ja, way early). Just as well, I was well tired anyways. We’re kicking off again at 07:00 tomorrow to make the border to Tanzania and we’ve allotted about half a day to do the Safety Dance through customs.
Till later.
[G & A], out
“isn’t this a one way??”
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