26 June 2009

26 June, Day 13: Onward to Tarangire

Slept like a king, almost too comfortable :)

We met up with the rest of the guys for breakfast, toast and eggs. Asked for the eggs medium, no chance. Toaster is broken, so you have to stand next to it and stop it manually lest you burn the your bread. This happens at least three times. Along with our “western” breakfast requirements they serve what I can only describe as a kind of beef Miso soup. Delicious! Not used to having beef stew this early in the morning but whatever.

I also discover this really awesome Tanzanian instant coffee, African. It’s the best instant coffee I’ve ever had, very much on par with filter and it’s very very fine. Made a note to buy some.

Pre-flight checks, pack all the gear and the other guys spend about an hour trying to get hold of the tour company, Roika tours. We need to check if they can perhaps meet us in the town just after Arusha, since Mattie has to pick up his wife from the airport there. We are also keen to change the dates somewhat, to buy us some time. Cell phone reception is very choppy and it’s frustrating trying to get hold of anyone. They do manage to speak to someone, bottom line is we’ll need to stop over at Arusha anyway.

All done just before 09:00 and we head out, towards the Tarangire national Park.. As you’d expect, the roads are pretty bad again once you leave town. We pass by a big road works project (Chinese in full force) and I drive on the service road (mostly sand, so car swims around a bit...) as much as I can, to try and reduce the bumps and vibrations, again for Annelie’s sake. She’s getting progressively worse, headache and stomach cramps. We’ll need to get her checked out. We break for lunch at about 13:45. Mattie has a few wounds that look infected, so we treat and dress them.

Around high noon we arrive in Tarangire and start scouting camps. Our first looky look is a dud. Lakeview campsite seems to have been abandoned a long time ago. We are greeted by a very sweaty, very drunk local, who claims to be the camp owner. The entire site is perched on a hill, with a fantastic view of Lake Manyara, where many wild animals hang out. Unfortunately, as I’ve mentioned, the place is derelict and the entire site is covered in thorns! So no camping here.

We head back down to another option and reach a fork in the road. We split up, 2 cars left, 2 right. I forget the camps name on the left, but it was the same story (less vista, more derelict). I head back to the other camp, but not before snapping some pics of the numerous zebra running all over the show. On the right hand fork we come across Camp Maramboi.

It’s the first time that I’ve seen what’s called a Tented Lodge. The restaurant and reception area blends in seamlessly with the Savannah and it has a little deck that ends in a pool area, with deck chairs for sunset views and cocktails. The entire restaurant structure is only covered with a straw roof and it is stunning! The “rooms” are high quality canvas tents perched on their own wooden platforms. The guys have a chat about price. $150 per person, per night. Yikes! The manager, a gentlemen going by the name of Aladdin sees our despondent faces end decides to offer us the only 4 available tents he has left for the day, for a mere $75. We accept!

He gives us a quick rundown of the house rules. The entire place is run on solar power, generators in a pinch. So, don’t charge any appliances in the rooms, switch off all your lights when you leave the room (to conserve power and prevent attracting mosquitoes and other bugs). Our stay includes a buffet dinner, breakfast and Lunch. Fanie tries to catch him out, saying that technically we’ll miss lunch if we need to check out by 10:00. Without missing a beat he casually replies: “How? We pack you a lunch box”. Very suave, Mr Aladdin, very suave indeed. Another thing: if you retire for the evening to your tent, stay there. This is for your own protection, since you’ll need an escort to move about the camp. There are actual wild animals cruising around freely. For security detail, they have employed quite a few Masai. They don’t say much and always carry a weapon of some sort, usually a short sword. One of the escorts had a bow and three very sharp, very deadly looking arrows. He gladly showed it off when I asked about it. Too damn bad I didn’t have my camera on me!

Anyways, we get the keys for our tent and I instruct Annelie to go fish out her wedding dress. We have about an hour of good light to play with. I rush to get all my gear together while helping her get dressed with my one free hand. We manage to snap off a few hundred pics, some of them are even good. The camp it filled to the brim with American Tourists... on Safari (have I mentioned that it’s the worst kind of tourist??). Meh. So lots of stupid remarks and unfunny jokes as we try to grab the last bit of light.

We finish off the session with a well deserved dip in the pool, before heading back to the tent for a shower and to get ready for dinner. I made a suggestion that they try and organise Annelie and myself a table away from the rest of the group (and, more importantly, away from the khaki clad, sunburnt, loud and obnoxious Americans. They dress really funny, who tells them to buy this shit??). They happily oblige. The buffet was absolutely phenomenal, all sorts of treats on offer. I was a bit greedy and couldn’t finish off my plate. Hate wasting food.

Annelie phasing between recovery and cramps. When we get to Arusha I will take her to a hospital.

Highlights: A refreshing dip in the pool after a day of dusty, bumpy driving

Lowlights: Annelie not feeling well.

[G & A], out

*instrumental*

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