20 June, Day 7: Day trippers

I set my alarm for 05:00 (that’s in the A M), in order to catch the sunrise. Grabbed my gear, tripod, jacket (coffee would have been really cool... didn’t plan that far) and headed down to the beach. Sunrise was around 06:10, but I was a little let down by overcast skies. I took a few shots anyways, strolled down the beach and took some more pics. Almost stepped on a grasshopper having a moment on the beach. Sat down next to it, enjoyed the view. Not much of a conversationalist, but that was cool.

Walked back to camp at around 07:15, made some coffee just as Annelie woke up. Shared some rusks with everyone (Annelie’s Mom baked them) and everyone sat around and chatted for a while. It’s really cool listening to the old guys (now retired) about their businesses and all sorts of issues they had over the years. I’m learning quite a bit and it now makes more and more sense why these guys are such naturals at negotiations and bartering. I’m learning, I’m learning.

We organised to go out on a little day trip today at 11:00, once the lake and the wind died down. We organised to go out on a fishing boat to a little island just off the coast. We were in for some snorkelling, followed by a visit to the local fishing village and hopefully catch a glimpse of some fish eagles (I actually watched them all morning already. So graceful!)

But first, we wanted to head into town to get to a forex and check out the local area. In the camp compound it’s quite sheltered from the REAL Malawi experience. We had about an hour and a half to kill, so I hopped through the shower, juggling the 5 drops a minute of hot water from the shower as best I could. At least I got clean. Packed up the Bullet and headed into town. It’s more of the same from what we’ve seen before, little straw huts interspersed with brick and straw houses. Little craft markets and hawkers next to the road. Saw these weird black mud mounds, some with names on them. Thought maybe they where graves, but I’m not so sure. I saw a local with water and mud adding to the pile, so I suspect maybe they use it for pottery? Must ask around.

Managed to get some Malawian Kwachas (about 160 to the Dollar) and did some light shopping, mostly wine :) Got back to camp just before 11:00, but the lake was still a bit rough, but getting better. We decided to wait until 12:00 instead. So we took some time to get all our swimming gear, put the camera, GPS logger and money into a zip lock bag and have lunch. At noon, we were all lined up on the beach, staring in disbelief and this really shaky looking boat. Oh well, what's the worst that could happen??

Good thing we packed some motion sick pills, because it was rough going to the island. The captain of this fine vessels was one of the most muscular lads I’ve seen on this trip. He looked a bit Nigerian, possibly Congolese? Anyways, he was quite masterful at guided us to the island, by this time the sun was out and we could get to some snorkelling. Saw quite a bit of marine life, but visibility was quite poor. Lots of lizards and butterflies all over too. Our guide waited with us on the island until we were done (didn’t want to have to negotiate a price BACK to land! This is why you pay AFTER the trip. I’m learning, I’m learning...) before loading us all back on the boat. We cast off to the fishing village.

What an amazing experience! So much activity, people very inviting and friendly, our guide explaining the various fish drying methods, types of food and guiding us through the little alleys and byways. We wanted to try some real Malawian beer so he took us to a little bar in the middle of it all. Lekker. Tried some Kuche Kuche beer, at 3.7% not too rough. But at 500ml, more than enough to put all of us in a really mellow mood :)

Headed back to the boat and back to our camp site, but not before they tossed little fish they skewered with wood into the lake for the eagles. They managed to coax one of them to snatch it up quite close to the boat, I think I MAY actually have caught in on camera. But it’s tough going in a moving boat.

We’re making some chicken potjie tonight, with Chakalaka sauce, potatoes, sweet patatoe (that we bought at the fishing village) and veggies. Also enjoyed a HUGE papaya we bought in the village, delicious! It was about this time that we realised that this would have been a most excellent time to grab Annelie’s wedding dress and snap some pics on the beach, but we where hands deep in prepping food, and the dress was packed away, and I was still pissed, and and and. Oh well. Next time, we’ll be more prepared.

It’s our last evening here, we managed to fall behind again by one day, but I reckon it was worth it. So it’s going to be a bit of hard going again the next day or two. I’m really getting into this!

It’s now ABOUT 18:20, pitch black and I’m going to call it a day with the journal. Need to get some pics uploaded and enjoy that awesome potjie we got going on the fire.

Until later, much love from Malawi.

Highlights: A true fishing village experience!

Little blue fishes (as seen when snorkelling off an island in Lake Malawi)

[G & A], out

It’s as simple as something that nobody knows